PUBLICATIONS BY SCHOOL ASSOCIATES

publications coverALAN AND VANESSA HOPKINS

FOOTWEAR: SHOES AND BOOTS FROM THE HOPKINS COLLECTION

TSHD 2015

Our first publication is now available to purchase on the school website SHOP at www.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk Price £25 The book features more than 200 items of footwear from The Hopkins Collection, arranged in chronological order to demonstrate the evolution of shapes and styles from c.1730 to c.1950 and exemplify the Hopkins’ interest in the clothes worn by people from all classes of society. The footwear is shown with close-up details of its shape, construction and decoration, alongside images of people wearing similar styles from the same time period.

Patterns of Fashion 1JANET ARNOLD

Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction c. 1660-1860

Wace 1964

Patterns of Fashion 1 features Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction from 1660 to 1860. Drawings taken from original garment specimens in collections throughout England are supplemented with details showing their construction and scale patterns of them laid out on grid paper along with construction comments and fabric details. From wrapping gowns, riding habits, pelisses, and chemises to sack dresses, morning dresses, and wedding dresses. Contains 180 black and white illustrations. 28 patterns.

Patterns of Fashion 2JANET ARNOLD

Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction c. 1860-1940

Wace 1966

Patterns of Fashion 2 focuses on the eighty-year period preceding the Second World War. Beginning with a day dress from c. 1861-3 from the Museum of London and ending with a 1938 Evening dress from the V&A costume historian and researcher Janet Arnold traces period and style and draws up scale patterns from the original garments on grid paper with construction instructions. An introduction focuses on patterns published in fashion magazines of the period. Contains 226 black and white illustrations. 34 patterns.

Patterns of Fashion 3JANET ARNOLD

Patterns of Fashion 3: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c. 1560-1620

Macmillan 1985

The third volume in Janet Arnold’s groundbreaking series, concentrates on the Elizabethan and Jacobean eras. Significantly, too, this is the first of Arnold’s books to include patterns for men’s clothing. As well as Janet Arnold’s meticulous scale patterns for these remarkable garments, the book includes 300 black and white photographs ranging from portraits of the period to details of articles of clothing. 56 patterns.

Patterns of Fashion 4JANET ARNOLD, JENNY TIRAMANI & SANTINA M. LEVEY

Patterns of Fashion 4: The cut and construction of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear and accessories for men and women c. 1540-1660

Macmillan 2008

A book dedicated to the linen clothes that covered the body from the skin outwards. It contains 420 full colour portraits and photographs of details of garments in the explanatory section as well as scale patterns for linen clothing ranging from men’s shirts and women’s smocks, ruffs and bands to boot-hose and children’s stomachers. An invaluable guide to both the history and the recreation of these wonderful garments. 85 patterns.

Handbook of CostumeJANET ARNOLD

A Handbook of Costume

Macmillan 1973

A guide to the primary sources for costume study intended for everyone who is interested in costume, whether amateur or professional, teacher or student. It is an authoritative guide to the primary sources for costume study, among them painting, sculpture, tapestry, drawings, engravings, photographs and film, outlining some of the problems involved in their use. It explains how evidence can be pieced together from literary and archive sources and a fascinating section explains how costume can be dated accurately and subsequent alterations – for ordinary wear or for fancy dress – detected through details of cut and construction techniques.

QEWUJANET ARNOLD

Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d

Maney and Son Ltd Leeds 1988

A study of the clothes worn by Queen Elizabeth I, based on portraits, warrants for the Wardrobe of Robes, and other surviving material. Includes full transcriptions of the inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes prepared in 1600, preserved in the British Library, Public Records Office, London, and the Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington DC. Illustrated with 460 B&W photographs the book is an invaluable reference work for students of the history of dress and embroidery, for social historians, for art historians working in the filed of portraiture, and for those who recreate sixteenth-century fashions for pageants, dance, historic re-enactments, theatre, film and television.

Lace a historySANTINA M. LEVEY

Lace: A History

Maney & Son 1990

The book covers the period from the early sixteenth century to the First World War and is arranged chronologically to accommodate the underlying changes in fashionable dress and the lace worn with it, but, within each chapter, the different types of lace are dealt with one by one. Greatest attention is given to the leading fashion laces but less important laces are also described; these range from simple domestic trimmings and cheap copies worn lower down the social scale, to ‘fossilized’ versions of once fashionable laces which continued to be made for peasant communities and for some conservative societies in the New World. The distinguishing technical features of each lace are described and particular attention is given to the close copies of historical lace that were made in the late nineteenth century.

Fine & FashionableSANTINA M. LEVEY & JOANNA HASHAGEN

Fine & Fashionable: Lace from the Blackborne Collection

The Bowes Museum 2006

A guide to the riches of the Blackborne collection recently donated to the Museum. Beginning with an introduction to the firm of A. Blackborne & Co, 19th century lace dealers, it covers the outstanding collection from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Many pieces will be displayed in the new permanent Textile & Dress Gallery due to open late 2008. This is not just a book for the lace enthusiast, but a book which allows the innocent and perhaps rather uneducated eye to be drawn into the luxurious world of lace, to the beauty and skill behind these items of portable property which were at the centre of the world of fashion.

HardwickSANTINA M. LEVEY

The Embroideries at Hardwick Hall: a catalogue

National Trust 2007

The Embroideries at Hardwick Hall is the first ever catalogue of one of the most important collections of embroidery anywhere in the world. More than 200 spectacular and rare objects from the late sixteenth century are discussed in terms of their design, matrerials and wider significance in the fields of both social and artistic history. All are illustrated by specially commissioned photography.

pietsch book

JOHANNES PIETSCH & KAREN STOLLEIS, with a contribution by Nadine Piechatschek Kölner

Patrizier- und Bürgerkleidung des 17. Jahrhunderts. Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt

Abegg Stiftung 2008

Volume 15 of the Riggisberger Berichte presents the most important collection of seventeenth-century bourgeois garments. The coherent ensemble of bodices, doublets and men’s gowns provides, with the help of pictorial and documentary sources, fundamental insights into the clothing of the period, its making and manner of wearing. Historical and technical analyses as well as extensive material analyses contribute valuable information. The richly illustrated catalogue section includes colour images, both full views and details of the clothes, as well as scale patterns of each garment. A separate chapter is devoted to the elaborate conservation and the made-to-measure mannequins.

Text in German, English translation of the introductory chapters available

Taschen 1500-1930JOHANNES PIETSCH

Taschen: Eine europäische Kulturgeschichte 1500-1930 Munich

Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 2013

A catalogue to accompany an exhibition of bags curated by Dr. Johannes Pietsch at the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich in 2013.

 

 

 

Taschen 20-21JOHANNES PIETSCH

Taschen: 20 – 21 Jahrhundert Munich

Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 2013

A catalogue to accompany an exhibition of bags curated by Dr. Johannes Pietsch at the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich in 2013.

 

 

 

WSCDP 1JENNY TIRAMANI, LUCA COSTIGLIOLO, ARMELLE LUCAS & CLAIRE THORNTON with SUSAN NORTH

Women’s Seventeenth Century Dress Patterns Book One

V & A 2011

This innovative and breathtakingly detailed book from the V&A presents dress patterns, construction details, embroidery, and making instructions (including a knitting pattern and lacemaking) for 15 garments and accessories from a seventeenth century woman’s wardrobe. Step-by-step drawings of the construction sequence and scale patterns for each garment enable readers to accurately reconstruct them. There are scale diagrams for making linen and metal thread laces, silk braids, and embroidery designs. Multiple photographs, close-up construction details, and X-ray photography reveal the hidden elements of the clothes, the number of layers, and the stitches used inside. This first book in a new series takes the physical examination and study of historical clothing to a new depth and degree of detail, using the expertise of designers, tailors, and makers from London’s Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre.

WSCDP 2JENNY TIRAMANI, MELANIE BRAUN, LUCA COSTIGLIOLO, ARMELLE LUCAS & CLAIRE THORNTON with SUSAN NORTH

Women’s Seventeenth Century Dress Patterns Book Two

V & A 2013

Book Two in the V&A’s groundbreaking new series presents 17 patterns for garments and accessories from a seventeenth-century woman’s wardrobe. It includes patterns for a loose gown, a jacket, a pair of stays and a boned bodice, ivory and wooden busks, shoes, a hat, a stomacher, linen bands and supporters, a bag and a knife case. It also features a description of the stay-making process. Full step-by-step drawings of the construction sequence are given for each garment to enable the reader to accurately reconstruct them. There are scale patterns and diagrams for making linen and metal thread laces and embroidery designs. Multiple photographs of the objects, close-up construction details and X-ray photography reveal the hidden elements of the clothes, the precise number of layers and the stitches used inside.